Wednesday, April 13, 2011

Prompt Blog #8: Reflections

Wow! I can’t believe that we are finished. It has been a long and winding road…through the woods! I feel reinforced and challenged now looking back on the past 15 weeks. A lot of my ideas about the genre, about my philosophical perceptions of the natural world, and in my spiritual relationship have been reinforced by the readings we’ve had, and the threads we’ve discussed together. Yet. I also feel that I have been challenged. Specifically, I think that I have been challenged by the scope of the genre. There’s so much more that I want to read and explore. I especially appreciate the text book and the posted readings, which I am going to delve into further and re-read as well.
Moreover, this course has provided me with a time in my hectic life to reconnect with the land and water that revitalizes me. With a new job, two young children, a wife who doesn’t work and needs me to relieve her of her rug-rat duties as much (or should I say as little) as I have the time to, I can’t really carve out the time to go outside. But this course has allowed me to do that, has given me the excuse. And for that…Mel, everyone…thank you!
This connection to the land…any land…it has always been a part of my writing and will continue to be. This class has fostered my ability to look at “nature” through new perspectives, which I feel has strengthened my writing as a whole.
That time has been extremely valuable beyond my writing, too. I really hadn’t made a connection with the land that is my new home, but the weekly place blogs have led me through a path to the land and back to the most important part of my home: my family, my girls.
Hopefully, though, I will get to spend a little bit more time with them after April 20, since I will not be taking six credits…for a little while at least.

Monday, April 11, 2011

Place Blog #8: The Other Side

This week I soaked my hands in blood, metaphorically and physically. I participated in all things sacrilege in my beliefs as a fly-fisherman…
I followed a stocking truck, dumped buckets of fish that were raised in raceways into Delaware Creek, a neighboring watershed to Lost Creek.
But I did it for my daughter.
We woke at 6 am, extremely early for my daughter. She did well, though, and got dressed quickly, letting me stuff her into these miniature neoprene waders my dad got her for Christmas, before she followed me into the misty morning. The air was damp and chilly as we stopped to get hot chocolate, egg sandwiches, and worms at a local gas station, but Clara didn’t flinch. She was excited; we were putting “trout-fish” in the creek.
I met my friend Zach Hosler on Zendt Hollow Road where the Juniata Stocking Club kept their pens. A small mountain spring, no bigger than a drainage ditch along a highway, fed this homegrown hatchery. The stream ran along the road, cutting through one of the club member’s farm, which--strangely enough--raised bison.
When we arrived, Zach was already standing in the bed of his truck, foot propped up on this huge white plastic tank. A black rubber tube, hooked up to a pump in the mountain stream, filled the tank while Zach’s dad and a number of other older guys ran around the pens with buckets and nets. When the tank filled to 180 gallons, the aerator pump kicked on and the old men started hauling up buckets of fish.
They brought the buckets up to Clara to see; it seemed as if there was more fish in the bucket than water. Sleek, marbled green backs, white-tipped fins of brook trout, golden bellies of brown trout, and jewel-sides of rainbows—they rolled over each other, slapping their tails, splashing Clara in the face with water. She laughed, and the old men laughed with her. Yet, they kept bringing each bucket for her to see…and to get splashed by.
I noticed that these fish were more colorful than most stocked fish and bigger than state bred trout, and asked Hosler about it.
“Fresh-water shrimp,” he explained, “this stream is full of them.”
I felt better knowing that these trout were somewhat educated, eating natural foods and not just trout pellets. Maybe I wasn’t just about to dump genetic Frankensteins into one of my new home creeks. These fish at least had experience that would lead them to hitting a fly.
After we filled the tank with about 400 fish, we headed down to the creek. We pulled out a few buckets at each bridge and road-side hole. Clara even got to put three buckets into the creek. Each time, she danced with joy, splashing in the shallows of the creek swollen over its banks from the past week’s rain.
Finally, we reached the public park where we emptied out the tank. When the last bucket of fish was carried off to the final hole, I broke out Clara’s Disney Princess rod so that we could try and catch some of the fish she just stocked in the creek. I place the bobber, tipped her hook with a wax worm, and helped her cast out into a nice current seam in the creek, right were the fast water eddied out into slack water along the far bank. It wasn’t long until we had our first fish, which she helped reel in. The fight wasn’t epic, the fish not huge. But Clara was so proud of catching her first trout ever (she had only caught sunfish before this), that she didn’t want to throw it back.
Normally, when Clara has gone fishing with me, we would reenact a catch-and-release ritual. I bring in the fish (sometimes with her help, sometimes not), unhook the fly or bait-hook from its mouth, extend it to her so that she can pet it with one finger on its head before she says “Ewww, it’s slimy; throw it back!”
Today, though, as I reached out the trout to her, she petted it on the head like normal but then said, “I wanna eat that fish; keep it!”
Shocked, I didn’t know what to do. I didn’t carry a stringer because I didn’t usually keep fish. Moreover, when I have kept fish they usual have been big enough to make  a meal out of just that one fish…so it had to be 15 inches or greater. This fish was only 9 or 10 inches at best.
I begged some of the other fishermen that were in the park, and one of them gave me a plastic bag to keep the fish in, but I quickly realized that we would have to be mass murderers today. Within the next hour, we had three more fish of equal size in our plastic bag creel, while having thrown two others back just so we could keep fishing.
As we packed up our gear, a light drizzle swirling in the breeze that began to pick up, the last of our fish flopped in the plastic bag. It hurt me to watch that trout struggling, not because I minded killing a fish, but because I minded killing one so small, and killing so many. I was saddened because I knew that these fish would not be here in days to come to bring more times that Clara and I could bond and behold nature’s wealth.
When we got home, though, Clara holding the slick bag of slimy fish up to mommy, saying, “I am going to eat these fishies I caught,” I thought that maybe there was no foul today. We “paid” for those fish with our work. The stream in which we planted them would get too warm for trout later in the year anyway. Moreover, I didn’t just plant fish; I hopefully planted a fingerling of a tradition in my daughter’s memories. I’d like to start joining the club on more stocking trips. Probably the next one will be to Lost Creek. I’d like to fish more streams where Clara gets to catch trout that she placed there with her own hands. I want to share memories with her that I didn’t get to with my dad because of the confusion and hatred bred in divorce.
So, yeah….that’s right. All of my fly fishing friends…if you can find this blog in the overabundance of blogs on the internet: I have participated in a trout stocking; I have caught fish with bait; I killed those fish, took them home, and fried them up; and I liked it!

Friday, April 8, 2011

Prompt Blog #7: Brook Trout

I have hiked four miles on Black Forest Trail, off of Rt. 44, to get back into County Line Creek. It’s a narrow, shallow creek cutting down through the Alleghany plateau. Nothing seemingly special; not what one many would call a “destination” fishery. Its banks are choked with rhododendron and laurel, making it hard to cast a fly. The few fish I do catch are only promising to be a half-foot long; a ten-inch trout here is a real trophy.
Why go through so much effort? Because County Line, like hundreds of other nondescript runs, streams, and brooks in the Pennsylvania Appalachian Mountains, is one of the last strongholds of the Brook Trout.
Often criticized for its small size and lackluster “fight” in angling circles, the brook trout gets a bum rap. These relatives of the mighty Arctic char and the long, sleek lake trout have the ability to get massive in size, as large as the largest brown trout or rainbow trout or salmon. However, these hillbilly trout have been pushed out of their native habitat into the last remaining pristine waters of the East, waters like County Line which don’t have the room or the food chain to support larger fish.
All up and down the spine of the Appalachians, brook trout survive: barely. They have been relegated to the fringe of humanity because we humans have made “humanity” incompatible with “nature.” Pristine might as well mean “without human” even though all of our pristine and damaged lands alike have always been affected by humans. However, our accentuated industrialism in the past 150 years has deforested our lands, heated and polluted our waters with factories and dams, and introduced foreign fish such as brown and rainbow trout, as well as small mouth bass, whose aggressive nature will outcompete trout parr in any watershed where they meet.
But it hasn’t always been this way; the upper reaches of the Susquehanna all contained brook trout, which thrived so well that early settlers recorded catching basket after basket of 16 + inch fish until they couldn’t carry the baskets home. Moreover, the supply seemed limitless, so they set no limit on the harvest. As our modern world replaced “nature,” though, it became very clear that the brook trout’s day was numbered, so brownies and rainbows were imported from all over the world to replace them.
“Unfortunately”, rainbows could never reproduce in the East very successfully and brown trout, while they could reproduce, did not do so with the same prolific abundance as the brook trout used to. Yet, even though they couldn’t reproduce, Americans kept (and still keep) on stocking these “more successful,” “more sporting” trout in the brook trout’s native habitat. Much more aggressive and territorial, browns and rainbow out competed brook trout and pushed them further and further up watersheds until they were only left the County Line Creeks of the East Coast.
So, all of this being said, why do I make this trek to places like County Line Creek? I don’t know. I guess I’m a romantic. I guess that a small native fish is more of a treasure than a large exotic to me. I guess that the brook trout seems to be the only connection someone like me has to a time they were born too late to witness first hand. I guess I’m trying to bear witness before the last native brook trout are gone or replaced with genetically similar hatchery trout.

Place Blog #7: Lost Again

Spring has sprung in PA for sure. The April showers are here and have been here, on and off, for a week. I stand on the bridge over the culvert where I have brought Clara to fish. I wouldn’t bring her here now; I don’t want to instill any kind of discomfort for her to associate with the outdoors…not yet.
I stand here, though, not because this assignment forces me to, but because I want to bring myself to the heart of nature; to the wet, muddy, fecal matter of nature.
The grey vagueness of day is slowly folding into the darkness, but the rain persists. It drips off of my ball cap in individual drips, beads up on my waterproofed jacket. Yet, it streaks, it runs, it flows back to the puddle at my feet first, then back to the stream below.
I, too, melt, flow back into the stream of unconsciousness. Seriously, nothing is going on in my head. It’s as vacant as the clouded, moonless night, silent but for the irregular, persistent beat of the rain.
I wish I could say that I was transported back to trips into the woods where I sat around with friends who I haven’t spoken to in years, that I remembered our conversations over a fire spitting and sputtering, defyingly staying lit in similar rains. I wish that I could say that memories of rain-soaked fishing trips with my father, where we’ve stared at each other through the beaded-curtain of rain, smiling through soaked beards, lifting heaving trout out of the river into the rain.
I wish I could, but that’s not where I am. I am here; I am in the rain; I am not a tree, nor a rock, or a blade of grass bending under the weight of rain. But I am something like that, though, I don’t know what.
A car stops behind me. Maybe confused by the long hair sticking out of my hat, maybe confused because I’m utterly soaked, the driver, an older man wearing a green and yellow trucker hat, spins down the window of his Ford pickup and asks (almost stereotypically), “You alright, son?”
There isn’t any condescending tone in his voice, but general concern, as if he is my father, as if he worries if I’m sick. “No, I’m fine,” I answer.
“Well, you just looked like you were lost starin’ out in space like that,” he said. “You gonna get hit or catch a cold out here.”
“No, no,” I lie, and thank him for his concern before walking back over to my Jeep. He nods goodbye as he passes. I wave back.
In the Jeep, I shake off the wet chill, crank the heat, locate myself again. I wish I could say that I didn’t know where that locale is, that my existence is as fluid and consubstantial as stream. But I am here, now, again, within the world of man’s creation.

Sunday, March 20, 2011

Prompt Blog #6: There’s a trout stream in PA

I propose that we make a new license plate here in Pennsylvania. I can imagine it now. There, on the plates of the cars that pull off Rt. 35 before me, heading north with me on Jericho Road. Across the top it’ll read “There’s a Trout Stream in Pennsylvania”; at the bottom it could read the name of the stream that serves as the rock of that fly fisher’s faith. “There’s a Trout Stream in Pennsylvania: Pine Creek.” “There’s a Trout Stream in Pennsylvania: Penn’s Creek.” “There’s a Trout Stream in Pennsylvania: The Little ‘J.’” Maybe Trout Unlimited could even incorporate this saying into the plate that they already produce in conjunction with PennDot. That way the extra money anglers are paying to evangelize their sport and their holy shrines will go to an organization that will help preserve the land and the water that they share in communion with others.
I know that there’ll be more than enough interest in such a venture. I’ve talked to numerous fishermen who describe, in detail, their altar stream and invite me to fish those waters as freely as my grandpa invited any stranger to church. These fishermen can, of course, recite the names of pools and swifts better than they can recite even one Bible verse, and they are only inviting me to fish with them so they feel less guilty about praying for a rise instead of kneeling to pray on Sunday. They need partners in crime. These fisher-types would be glad to personalize and purchase a license plate that would boast of the glories of their trout stream. Then, when they’re gathered around the tailgate, beer in hand, they can talk about how their waters are superior to the Henry’s Forks and Big Horn Rivers of the West—that theirs is the one and only, true trout stream. They’ll have the proof right there on their bumper and in their creels.
As I think about it, though, many fly fishermen whom I know (and whom I fall into ranks with on some issues) would discount the value of buying these license plates—and for many different reasons. Some would just say that fishing is just fishing and wouldn’t agree with my associating fly fishing with religion. Others may claim this license plate scam is just more evidence of how commercially trendy it has become to be a fisher of flies since that movie with Brad Pitt came out. But most of the people I fly fish with wouldn’t buy a plate with their favorite stream on it because they don’t want to blow the whistle on their whole operation. They (as well as myself) don’t want anyone else eavesdropping on their creek-side meditations. To some of us, the connection with our fish and our God is a personal one—a private, individual relationship, where God whispered into our ear where the fish are! We’ll fish the bigger waters—the Delawares, the Lehighs, the Clarion Rivers, etc.—but only when we don’t have the time to make it to our favorite streams. Those bigger streams are very nice cathedrals with wonderful gospels written about them that attract the devout and the faithful. But on them, it feels as if you’re only going through the motions, as if you’re not having a genuine experience.
I haven’t been to my trout stream in a while. I haven’t even thought about its currents in over a year. But as I cross over Lost Creek on an open-grate bridge in Jericho Mills, its currents remind of the quintessential trout stream—the stream that’s there in Pennsylvania for me, and I am transported to its banks.
It is the kind of pilgrimage that only a few people take. I’m looking for some obscure splinter of wood that’s supposedly a part of the Crucifix and is displayed on an altar in South America. You can’t locate it on the Internet or read about it in books; the only way you’ll ever find it is by talking with the locals.
Along the way, you’ve got to shuck pretension and ritualism like a nymphal skin. You’ve got to feel the grass in an oaken grove with your hands or bare feet. Splash the water on your face; put the rod down for a while. You’re only about an hour and 45 minutes from the intersection of Jericho Road and Rt. 35, somewhere in that vast north you spy on your commute home everyday. There’s a dirt road leading back to an old stone and timber bridge where you park since it’s too old and narrow to cross. The only sign of civilization is an abandoned camp made out of the same stone as the bridge. Down below there’s a series of runs and holes that hold decent trout, but you decide to wade slowly into the flatwater right in front of you. It’s not winter now; it’s that time of year, and you know the sulfur duns will pop up through the surface tension of the water. Anyway, you know there are some big trout in here, so there’s no reason to go tramping all over the countryside. The sun is starting to sink below the ridge that rises immediately due west, and you know you won’t have a lot of time before you can’t see your imitation on the water. This means you might not catch a fish, but—man!—it is just enough to be in a setting like this.
And that’s just it—you know. From faith or experience or whatever you want to call it—you know that stream so intimately that you have names of fish you caught on the back of your pictures. That place is so much a part of you that you might want to slap it on a license plate. Then again, you might not.

Place Blog #6: Not quite lost.

Sometimes, things aren’t “lost” but simply overlooked. In our haste, we rush around, looking for what we assume to be big and flashy and to jump out at us with blinking lights and signs saying “HERE: THIS IS WHAT YOU’RE LOOKING FOR!” But often, we miss whatever it is we’re looking for simply by oversight: the “lost” keys in your old jacket pocket, the “lost” wallet in your dresser drawer, the “lost” drive in your life…well I guess that’s what I’m looking for.
But for me, it took a slow meandering drive through the Lost Creek watershed, with my daughter in her booster seat in the back of our Jeep, for me to find some semblance of what I’m looking for. Throughout this process of discovering Lost Creek, with the idea of finding a home, I’ve tramped up and down the watershed—mostly alone, mostly in the cold. But today it was so nice out, I brought Clara along, hoping that we could find some place to walk along the creek, skip stones (or just throw them in as she does at only 3 and a ½ years old).
From our house, we only needed to wiggle around some back-country roads for a mile before we crossed a small bridge on Sunset Road with a culvert channeling Lost Creek underneath it. There we pulled over beyond the guard rail where enough road gravel made the muddy ground a little more stable. If driving fast enough on this road, you might not even notice the creek. It’s barely more than a trickle, and its banks are choked with tangling green briar, grape vine, scrub oak, and a plethora of other low-lying shrubbery. But, I know what I’m looking for, the knot of vegetation a sign, however slight, that something more might be beneath.
We got out of the car and walked up to where the water spills out of the culvert, the only place that has some briar removed enough to walk up to the edge of the creek. Above the bridge and a few yards below this spot, the creek is no more than six feet across and probably only shin-deep at best, even now a week after a major flood event. But right below the bridge, the channeling of the waters through the culvert has dug out a plunge pool, deep enough and dark enough to hold trout beneath the ice in winter and to provide enough cover from predatory birds in the low-water summer.
“Daddy, I want to fish,” Clara declared.
Be still me heart! My daughter: a fishing nut with the same cracked shell as me. In my mind, I quickly thought about what gear we had in the car: her Disney Princess rod, left over from a sunny pond fishing trip last fall, my fly chest- and back-packs, but no fly rod. With our lack of equipment and the sun really starting to fade behind Shade Mountain to our north and west, I tried to persuade her that we ought to go home, that we’d come back another day and fish.
“No,” she said in a sweet, not demanding way, “We can fish for a little bit. It’s not too dark.”
I couldn’t say no to her enthusiasm and persistence, so I got out her rod. I attached a bobber and below that, since we didn’t have any worms for her to use, attached two weighted wet-flies that I normally would use to nymph this time of year. We walked over to the edge of the creek. A scraggly pod of briar still clung to the bank here, but I could cast out over that for Clara, and then she would reel it back in after letting it drift for a few yards. This lasted for a few casts before she was picking up road gravel that was kicked under the guard rail toward the bank and was putting handfuls of this stone in my jeans pocket.
“Ready to go home?” I asked.
“No, you keep fishing daddy.”
So there I stood, in the fading light, pink Princess rod in hand (oh yeah…did I mention that the handle lit up when you pushed the button on the reel to open the bale…) and a pre-schooler filling up my pockets with rocks. I wonder what the few cars that drove back Sunset Road were thinking when they saw our motley operation.
But honestly, I didn’t care. It was here, in the waning glow of the first really nice spring evening, my daughter with me by the bank of this artificial hole dug out by the culvert currents, that I think I might have found at least a piece of what I was overlooking. It wasn’t about a creek. As much as moving water is part of me, the creek was only part of “it.” A landscape alone cannot be a home; it has to be filled with people. It has to be shared with those you love.
So as I reeled in the Princess rod for the last time, the sunlight nearly gone, Clara asked, “Do we have to leave yet…,” and pulled her rocks out of my pockets to toss in the creek. They made a blast of tiny splashes, that we could only hear, not see, and she laughed: “I want to do some more.” Pure, simple.
Here was…is…this little girl. I’ve always told my wife that Clara is something special to me, not only because she’s my first child, but because she’s the first blood relative I’ve ever known due to fact that I was adopted. It blew my mind that very first time I held her up and sang “Blackbird” to her in the hospital, and it blew my mind now because I know that there’s more than my blood coursing through her; the same river that moves through me moves through her.

Saturday, March 5, 2011

Prompt Blog #5: PA’s Marcellus Shale Policy: FUBAR

I wracked my brain all week to decide what I wanted to blog about for this week’s prompt. There are so many issues that are close to my heart because they’re close to my home. I thought about writing about the siltation problem on the Susquehanna because of the lack of a riparian zone in the mostly agricultural landscape of Central Pa. I thought that I could write about the thermal pollution in the lower Susquehanna, caused by the reissuing of “cooling” water from power plants, which causes some areas of the lower river to reach summer time temperatures into the 100’s. Then there was the vanishing smallmouth bass population on the Susquehanna, which no one can explain except with vague generalities!
But then, I realized that you can’t really “rant” on any environmental issue in PA right now if you don’t rail upon the Marcellus Shale fracking boom that is currently going on in the state. For those of you who are not in the know, a large geologic formation called the Marcellus Shale lies underneath West Virginia Ohio, Pennsylvania, and New York.  Scientists and drillers have known for decades that the shale has held natural gas, but it used to be thought of little economic value because traditional drilling techniques only yielded modest production (however, those older wells are still producing without much decline in production, so “A patient investor might make a profit from these low yield wells with slowly declining production rates”) (Geology.com).
As most of us know, though, industry has little to no time for patience (or sustainability). So when Terry Englander, a geoscience professor at Pennsylvania State University, and Gary Lash, a geology professor at the State University of New York at Fredonia, found that you could extract a lot more gas in a much shorter time with hydraulic fracking and horizontal drilling (new techniques used in Texas to extract natural gas from the Barnett Shale), then the industry pounced on the area like a hungry cat on a mouse (Geology.com).
It is estimated that this formation holds 500 trillion square feet of natural gas (Savethewatertable.com). This kind of production would supply the whole East Coast with enough natural gas for…wait for it…if you can believe it…I’m not making this up: 50 years (Buffalonews.com)! While that seems like a long time, it’s a geologic blink of the eye, and when one considers the potential environmental costs, it’s not worth a dime!
Hydraulic fracking is not all it’s cracked up to be. In the process, “millions of gallons of water brewed with toxic chemicals,” and sand is forced into the well to “frack” the shale, releasing the gas (Buffalonews.com).  This in and of itself is not that bad, considering that the well is lined and sealed with concrete and used fracking water is supposed to be recycled, reused, or refined before being placed back in watersheds.
That would be the ideal situation. But when you consider that with PA’s current economic crisis (8 years of budget dispute included), the Department of Environmental Protection has seen a vast reduction in funding and personnel, so there is less oversight and applications for wells are passing without sufficient review. Consequently, oil and gas companies (from your small, local mom-and-pops to the big boys like Shell and Mobile) have a free ticket to drill for maximum profit.
Maximum profit means minimal environmental protections. First of all, these fracking operations are on the Allegheny Plateau and are drawing water from the headwaters of many streams and rivers that originate up in the mountains. This depletes the flow below and warms the waters, causing stress on aquatic wildlife. Furthermore, fracking water cannot be used indefinitely, and local water treatment plants don’t have the means or the capacity to treat toxic water, so these companies use “holding wells” to store this infected waste. Failure of these wells, spills, blowouts, or seepage through cracks in the seals of the gas wells can let this water into the local ground water, polluting residents’ drinking water. In Colorado, another state that has allowed hydraulic fracting, many have complained that the drilling waste has spoiled their drinking water (Savethewatertable.com).
It has even happened in PA. In Dimock, PA, many personal wells have been contaminated by methane leaking into the ground, and a spill into a local wetland led to a fish kill in the stream further down in the watershed (Buffalonews.com). There also was a blow-out in the central Northern Tier of PA and thousands of gallons of polluted water dumped into the ground (Savethewatertable.com).
So how has this happened? Don’t we have the Clean Water Act? Don’t we have a collective conscience or at least enough knowledge of history to remember the last 100 years where we had allowed the coal industry to run wild and now we’re still cleaning up their Acid Mine Drainage mess?
I guess not. Because we are the only state to have allowed the oil and gas companies free reign to destroy our landscape. In New York, there is a moratorium in place and no new gas wells can be drilled using the fracking technique until either more strict safeguards are in place or a better method is found to extract the gas. West Virginia has allowed drilling but oversees it closely; consequently, only a few hundred wells have been drilled (Buffalonews.com). In PA? 1,500 wells have already been drilled and 3,500 more permits are currently being processed (Savethewatertable.com).
Why do we allow this to happen? Greed. Individually, people who have property over the shale want to get rich quick by leasing their land to the drilling companies and earn royalties for the years to come. It has been a depressed area for many years. And the industry capitalizes on that. As one Washington D.C.-based industry economist said, “Before you put something in place that could dramatically affect this opportunity, think about the poor folks up there."
Listen to the rhetoric: “poor folks.” I barf at that paternalism. Having lived in Lock Haven, PA for 7 years, I was never a “poor folk,” even if money was tough. And I never would consider prostituting out the land just so that I could have it a little bit better. But others don’t care as much, and the industry won’t impose self-regulatory policies because “it believes state oversight is sufficient and worries the new EPA study will lead to new and costly safety and environmental rules that would rob them of decades of profit” (Buffalonews.com). Those rules may cost the industry money, but not having them will cost us generations of clean up.

Yet, no one seems willing to do anything about it. Republican Governor Tom Corbett wants to open up more state lands for drilling, yet he won’t impose a severance tax on gas extraction to help pay for clean-up and oversight. And the Democratic side of the state government isle isn’t proposing much else in the name of the environment. They do want to tax, but they do not support lessening the number of wells allowed to be drilled in PA. They too received campaign funds from the industry.

What’s worse, even if there are no accidents, even if we do everything “right” as far as protecting our watersheds, our forests and farms are going to vanish, replaced by gas well sites. New roads and open space will be clear cut in our woods to make way for the heavy equipment, pipelines, maintenance vehicles. Penn’s Woods will shrink even further. Our ridge tops, which have been held, almost sacredly by the hands of the Bureau of Forestry, Parks, or Game Commission will be trashed to make other people money (because don’t believe the hype, that money will not stay in PA unless it is in the form of a tax). Deforestation will lead to the fracturing of our woods, which will negatively impact wildlife. There will be greater runoff into our creeks, less shade for the headwater streams, increased water temperatures, fish kills, etc., etc., etc.

We live our lives in et ceteras. We blur over what’s truth and try to forget about it. Please write to your local representative and the governor if you live in PA. Ask for a moratorium on hydraulic fracking, or at least more oversight, a severance tax, and no more wells drilled on state lands.


Thursday, March 3, 2011

Place Blog #5: Headwaters

Winter is playing tug of war with Spring. The days: 40s, even 50 degrees one day this week. Nights: back down into the 20s. This give and take is mostly give as we step further and further into the new season. With the ice gone, I figured it would be a good time to go and visit the headwaters of Lost Creek, which I pictured to be swollen and easy to find in the woods now.
From my house, I access the trailhead that takes me to the uppermost reaches of Lost Creek by making one left turn, heading up Rt. 235 to the top of Shade Mountain. This “mountain,” a dwarf like every other hill in Pa, is the fractured remains of a whittled-down anticline, an oak forest shading its ridge top. At the lot, I follow the thin, dashed line on the state forest public use map in my hand, which is much too broad in scope, way too large in scale. It looks as if I don’t have to walk far from the parking lot to the creek crossing —a swift, cursive swish of the cartographer’s tool. Yet, I know this is an allusion but estimate that it’s still less than a mile.
As I start down the trail, I begin to realize my mistake in coming here. Of course, I have known for years that you don’t mountain bike after the early Spring thaw, but my sheltered life for the past 7 months have erased my memory. It seems as if the entire mountain is mud. My boots sink at least an inch into the earth with each step. I feel as if massive slabs of mountain are going to slough off in a muddy landslide as I descend a ravine. I wonder if I should turn back, knowing that I could get hurt at the worst, and at the least, I am putting undue stress on this trail. But I’m determined to find the origins of Lost Creek—my guide, the compass in the past year and a half as I’ve been trying to feel out the lay of the land of my new home.
But as I continue on, I realize my impact is the least of this trail’s worries.  In banked switchbacks, deep ruts are cut into the mud, down past the disturbed roots of rhododendron, down to rocks that were the only thing holding the hillside together. And even some of those were kicked up and tossed aside. Apparently, this trail had been approved by the state for motorized vehicles like dirt bikes, and a few “locals” were out here “muddin’.”
Locals? Wait. What do I mean by that? Aren’t I myself now a local? Do I mean redneck? Hick? How can I when I too grew up in a rural landscape and claim to be the most comfortable in those “borderlands” where agriculture abuts silviculture. What makes me so different?
As I walk a little further, I find one thing that makes me a little different. Not better, not more intelligent, just different.
In an especially mucky section of trail, some of the motor heads have placed a series of hewn logs side by side to build a buried bridge in this “quickmud.” Not a particularly obtrusive addition to the woods, maybe rocks could have been a better, less obvious addition, but much more practical in supporting the weight of a dirt bike. Anyway, as I know my “neighbors” must have busted over this feat of environmental engineering, they heard only the firing and roar of their two-stroke engines. I, though, standing with feet balanced on the outmost logs of the bridge, hear the low gurgle of water. No stream runs above ground, but it sounds as if the gurgle is coming from uphill. I walk up the sludgy bed of mud, which now works its way between the cuff of my pants and the tongue of my boots. After, I don’t know, ten to twenty yards, I come upon a boulder-garden at a steeper section of the mountain. Still no water seen, but I can hear a louder chug of water, running underneath the ground. I climb up a few of the bigger rocks, and find just the smallest cupping of land—a bathtub basin, rimmed by rocks and lined with fermenting leaves.
I couldn’t see where the water came in, as the pool started somewhere under another cantilevered rock, and I couldn’t see where it left, as it dove under more stone. But I felt, here, I had found it. This was not the demarked beginning of Lost Creek, as I had only gone halfway to the official creek crossing on the map. And by no means did I believe that this was the only sweetwater spring that gave birth to the creek. Dozens of similar springs rose out of nothing but the intersection of the watertable with the exposed world. But I felt satisfied, as if this spring rose out of something more. That the convergence of water, rock, mud, and me somehow brought this trickling pool out of a deeper well, as if I struck the stone with my walking staff and caused the river to run.
Another day, I’ll find the “official” headwaters. Right now, I’ll go home and wash the mud from my own feet.

Saturday, February 19, 2011

Place Blog #4: A Taste of Spring

The air has warmed to springtime temperatures this week, causing the ice to break and flow down to the Juniata or melt. The land, saturated with the melt water, holds water in temporary ponds and high in the water table. Between the effluent from the ground water and the drainage from roads and fields, the water is high…
…but not too high.
I drove back some twisted side roads that I still had never traveled in the year and a half I’ve lived in McAlisterville. This part of the creek is in the “Class A Wild Trout Stream” designation by the state, but my own exploration has mostly found a thin ribbon of water, too shallow to hold fish larger than a finger. Also, it would have probably almost entirely frozen this winter. I really haven’t seen where the fish could go.
Today, though, I found a bridge, under which Lost Creek runs through a culvert. Here, the current has roiled over upon itself, cutting out a hole which was probably deep enough to hold fish over during the winter. The color was perfect, an olive-teal, yet I could still see the rocks along the edge of the deeper current.
My knee-jerk response, almost my instinct, was to run home, grab my waders and rod and start plying the waters with pheasant-tail or hare’s ear nymphs. There was even a time in my life that I wouldn’t have left my house without having a rod and my pack in the back hatch of my Jeep.
But today, I’m in a van. A cold front is moving back in for next week, and a winter wind is kicking up. I don’t have my rod with me; I don’t even have a fishing license yet—by February, my old fishing journals tell me, I usually have at least a half-dozen days on the water!
I have work to do, though. This prompt to write. Graduation papers to grade for my seniors. Poems to read for Mentorship 1. I guess at some point in my life, I have to set priorities. Do what is most important.

Thursday, February 17, 2011

Prompt Blog #4: Cicadas

The periodic cicadas emerged over a swath of land in Central Pennsylvania in 2008. My first born child, Clara, was not yet a year old. I left her and my wife with my mother-in-law while I went with my father, father-in-law, and two brothers-in-law to camp out by Penns Creek for a week. We chased these 17-year ghosts—broad-faced, anterior bullet-pointed, wings hemmed with orange veins—not for themselves in particular, but for the trout that would gorge themselves on these special treats.
There’s nothing that really weird or spectacular about the periodic cicadas other than they can get lost in our memories. They, like all insects, live in our “world” mostly to breed, and lay their eggs. Those eggs then hatch into larva that eat and grow and eat and grow until they’re ready to become adults and breed themselves. The cycle of all life really. Mayflies, stoneflies, and caddis flies (other types of trout food) are all similar, as are many other terrestrial insects.
In fact, their development is almost identical to the yearly cicada. These yearly versions of the cicada are also known as the “dog-day cicada” because they emerge every year (almost everywhere in PA) during the hottest days of July and August. The only difference (other than color) is that the periodic cicadas emerge by the millions compared to the dog-day’s thousands, and the periodic cicadas only come around during May and June every 17 years.
Well, actually that’s not true. Some broods of Magicicada (as the periodic brand of the insect is scientifically known) come out every 13 years. Moreover, it’s not like a blanket emergence all over the United States east of the Mississippi. The Magicicadas pop up out of their underground layers in patches, non-concurrently, all over the East, South, and Midwest. The 13 year broods tend to be more southernly, while the 17 year broods tend to reside in cooler climates. So technically, if you want to travel around the country every summer, you could find periodic cicadas almost every year.
Honestly, I can understand why someone would want to follow them like a “Dead Head” touring with the band. Their emergence is amazing. You hear them before you see the signs of them. Their calls—not quite buzzing, not quite chirping—are so loud that you can hear them if your windows are up and your radio is on.  Their song crescendos and decrescendos almost as if they were conducted by the wind. Then, before you see the bug itself, you see its remnants. Shucks, paper thin, cling to the bark of host trees. Holes, about a ½ inch in diameter, magically appear in the dirt around most trees, as if a giant walked around the woods in golf cleats. Finally, you see them. Awkward and clunky, wings rattling like an old propeller driven airplane, they fly—barely. Their distended rears hanging low like broken landing gear. And when they lose their strength (or when the wind blows them in), they smack the water and churn the surface like a fly in soup. That’s when the trout go nuts. The biggest brown trout slash at the surface trying stuff their jowls full of crunchy goodness.
According to my in-laws, humans also eat them. My mother-in-law said that they picked them off of the trees during one emergence of her youth, and ate “locusts and honey.” I did not bring myself to actually taste one during our camping trip. Maybe next time.
They’re really not locusts, though, which are a grasshopper species. They don’t descend upon crops and consume them with Biblical fury. They will infest trees and drowned out heavy metal music blared from a car radio, but they do not bring death and destruction. Actually, they bring life.
Onondaga Indians from NY still share stories orally of how their people were saved from famine by a cicada emergence. Dogs, birds, and fish will feast, and for fish species like trout, there appears to be a correlation between cicada hatches and the number and size of trout that survive the warm, harsh summers of Pa. trout streams.
When we camped along the banks of Penns Creek at Poe Paddy State Park, this gluttony was evident. My brothers-in-law would seemingly milk dozens of cicadas off of a tree branch into Mason jars, then pierce their hard exoskeleton with hooks, stringing them on their lines. They would open the bail of their reels, cast their bait, which was still alive most times, to watch the cicada dance on a leash ten-to-twenty feet above the stream. If they could avoid birds stealing their cicada, they’d eventually tire it out, and it would land in the currents to attract equally hungry fish. My father, father-in-law, and I tossed hand-tied foam imitations with fly rods. Our patterns would splat off of the water under overhanging branches to find eager 18-, 19-, 20-inch brownies.
It was an amazing experience. We’d wake to the call of these phantom choirs, these momentary, mysterious mammoth “flies”; we’d commune with the trout, who partook in body and blood of bugs.
Unfortunately, though, I didn’t get too spend the entire week in woods with the men, fish, and bugs. My daughter got dehydrated from the flu, as was reported by my mother-in-law who came out to camp to inform me. I returned for an afternoon to see her. She seemed to be getting over it, taking some fluids, and her fever dropping. So I returned to camp to fish the next day. Within hours, the flu emerged in me…all over the woods by my father’s pop-top camper. It was a horrible night, and the next day I returned to my in-laws to tough out my own sickness.
On the morning I returned, Clara went into the hospital, her fever worsening and her color turning blue from the dehydration and a lack of oxygen in her blood. I was helpless; unable to travel a distance greater than 10 feet from a toilet. I had to wait in agony while my wife and her mother took Clara to the hospital for an IV. My wife told me later that Clara had to be strapped to a board, jabbed multiple times before the IV took. She cried the whole time.
She came home the next day, and I was feeling better. My wife encouraged me to go back out to camp. I’m not sure if it was because she didn’t want me to miss this once-in-17-years experience, or if she didn’t want me around to re-infect them in the house. So I went back to Penns Creek, only to find that the action had died down. The two days I missed to vomit and diarrhea were too hot for the trout, and they took to feeding in the early morning and evening—when the cicadas were least active. Plus, more and more along the banks, you’d see a wrack line of cicada corpses meaning that their time with us was soon over.
At the same time, I had experienced my first real cicada hatch and missed it, too. Even before the week was up, I started calculating the years until the next hatch. Clara would be 17, about to be 18, maybe graduated from high school.
“This will be a great graduation trip for Clara if she’s into fly fishing!” I said.
My father-in-law, staring into the campfire, simply said, “Don’t wish these years away.”
I can understand where he’s coming from. Seventeen years before, he was where I was: young, with a young family, the cicadas fattening trout. Now, his children were grown, young men and woman. Mothers, uncles—he was a grandfather. Even worse, the next time that the cicadas would come, he may not be able to wade Penns Creek’s strong currents at the age of 70.
I realized how events like this could end up not only marking major points of our lives, but framing our lives, marking the beginnings and the endings. So as soon as I went home, I studied up. I decided to track where each brood would next appear; I’d run after the magic cicada. I’d take Clara, and now my youngest Layla, all over the east coast catching whatever fish would rise to these fire-brushed insects.
Well, the first hatch that I could track down is this year: 2011. The only place they’ll be hatching over trout is in southwestern North Carolina. There’s no way that I’ll make it there.
But there will always be the next one. In Ohio. Or the upper Mississippi. Or maybe I’ll just wait until 2025 when they come back to Penns Creek. No need to rush. No need to chase. Just a need to know they’re there.

Saturday, February 12, 2011

Prompt Blog #3: The Wall

No matter how you get there, Lehman Road is at least two back, country roads away from any major macadamed artery in Halifax. Right before the its terminus, a T-section with Mountain Road, Lehman runs along Powell’s Creek, so close that a retaining wall—about 3 feet thick and 10 feet tall—has to hold back the road from crumbling into the stream. It is here that I still come in the spring to gauge the depth and clarity of the water, to see if this stream or the others in the area are suitable for fishing. It is here that I come to occasionally gauge my own depth and clarity.
I first came to the Wall with my grandpa when I was probably around 8 years old. We would come, park along the crumbling mudrock of the hill across the street from the Wall, and pull out nylon folding chairs to set up on the concrete “bank.” Perched ten feet above the creek itself, we’d toss hooks threaded with worms and corn to dumb stocked trout, yanking them from the currents to wriggle all the way up to our creels: plastic bags. I was too young to feel a connection to the creek, to the fish, but I felt closeness to grandpa—a shared place, shared memories.
As I grew into a teenager, I veered away from fishing. I was too concerned with school, sports, girls. I took for granted that the Wall and my grandpa would be there when I was ready to return. And I did return, to fishing a least. Learning the ways of streams. How fish hold in pocket water, conserving energy by letting the current bring food to them. How insects cling to the bottoms of rocks in their infancy. How they hide from trout, hope for life. How they finally cling to faith, shuck nymphal shells to breathe air, experience unbent light.  How some make it. How some don’t.
I kept making plans with grandpa to go back to the Wall, but I spent too much time fishing bigger creeks and rivers in my new home in the northern tier of PA. Rivers that grandpa could never fish because the current was too strong for 90 year old legs and there were no walls to set up chairs on.
I finally did return to fish the Wall, but this time with the woman who would become my wife. We didn’t have chairs, but she carried on my grandfather’s tradition of baiting fish with corn. I was decked out with all of my new technical gear: waterproof, breathable waders, a chest pack filled with varieties of dry flies, nymphs, streamers,  floatant gel, non-toxic split-shot, tippet the diameter of an infant’s hair. Yet, she was the only one to catch a fish—a horny-chub, named for the bumps on its forehead. I only caught rocks and twigs, which lead me to finally climbing down that wall, into the creek to feel the swell of the water around my legs.
I found the Wall to be not as stable and permanent as I thought, the creek eating away at it from underneath. A lip jutted out from the structure’s flat face, right around the common high water mark for spring, but it was broken off, like the edge of a graham cracker. Underneath, you could see the meat of it all: rebar skeleton, chunks of rock encased by the spongy-looking concrete. The Wall was taking in and letting go. It’s job could only be temporary. Like the road. Like the mudrock hillside beyond. Eventually the creek would consume everything.
After we got married, my wife and I moved back to my hometown of Halifax. My home, just two quick turns from the Wall. I would visit it often. I’d ask Brandy to come, but with our new baby, she couldn’t. I’d ask grandpa to come, but at 92, he finally admitted that he probably couldn’t even sit in a folding chair long enough to make it worth it. So I’d go by myself. I’d take more time working upstream and down. I’d climb down at the upper end of the wall, feel the mud give way as I’d slide step to the real bank of the stream. I’d learn that the substrata of this creek was a mix of silt eroded from farms upstream, naturally occurring cobble stone, and jutting bedrock that was the of the same origin as Peter’s Mountain to the south.
I wouldn’t always catch fish. The trout were still the same: dumb, stocked. They didn’t like to eat much of anything natural like mayfly larva or caddis pupa. So, I’d put on a San Juan Worm or yellow salmon egg imitations made out of yarn—the closest I could come to the bait of my youth. I thought this was cheating, but fished with them anyway—not seeing that I, too, was a mix of bedrock, pebbles, and silt.
A few months after my grandpa died suddenly at 93 due to complications from pneumonia, I was fishing at the Wall. I was alone, working the undercut of the concrete where I thought fish may be hiding from the stronger currents of the spring high water. I was alone, until a PA Fish and Boat truck pulled alongside the creek. From the top of the Wall, a Water Conservation Officer asked me a few survey questions, hoping to improve my experience in the future. I gave him my opinion: a lower creel limit, more special regulations waters with a catch-and-release stipulations, efforts to improve natural reproduction, fall stockings in waters where there was no extended season so the fish could learn the natural cycles of the streams.
Yet, even as I recited off these rehearsed lines that I’ve repeated to many others in discussions about conservation of PA streams, I knew that none of that would enhance my experience here at the Wall. I recognized Powell’s Creek couldn’t really hold over a large population of trout because of warming and siltation. It was made for put-and-take fisherman. It was a place for folding chairs, cans of corn, and plastic bags to take your fish home in. It was made for my grandpa, and that was the only experience I came to the Wall for.

Wednesday, February 9, 2011

Place Blog #3: Lost Creek, Finding Answers

Here, in a quick zig-zag through a hollow, Lost Creek, still locked in ice, bounces between two thrusts of ridge. Driving over the last bridge before the creek empties into the Juniata River, though, I see that cracks have formed from the thawing and refreezing we have had in the past week. Shelves of ice thrust up over others. Water seeps from these fault lines, running like a shallow fountain over the surface of the ice.  A meandering channel cuts a temporary path through this water rock along the far end of a curving bank.
Standing back by the road, I feel this—this slow loosening of winter, this exhale—is not really melting, but erosion. The creek really has been never still. Always, even where frozen from bank to bank, the water is moving—underneath, unseen. Melting implies that the ice itself gives up, releases itself into liquid. But a frozen body of moving water breaks up, thins out, cracks because of the never ceasing friction from below.
From the cut away hillsides, I know that creeks are change exemplified. I often see in creeks their fluidity, their constancy in adaptability. I don’t remember where I first heard the adage “you never stand in the same river twice,” but I’ve always felt—no matter how the channel has been cut differently, what fallen trees have dammed up this or that pool—I’m still standing the river, which essentially is the same.
Yet, I now realize I have been lost in the illusion of water. It is never the same river. Even when seemingly solid, erosion is part of the make-up of moving water. Dirt is an essential element. I see millennia traced in the rock cuts towering above the stream.
But the change is not always so slow.
I have found that Lost Creek originally got its name because an earlier settler thought the creek got “lost.” While traveling south-southwest toward the Juniata, it abruptly banked north, entering the main river upstream. If this is true, since that time, the creek has taken the mounds of earth that it has stripped away from the hills of this valley and silted in its delta because it now flows south into the Juniata. That was only about two-hundred years ago, very short in terms of geology and hydrology.
And the character of this stream changes weekly. It could be this week, or next, that it flows freely, raked clean of ice by the current. High water will gouge out new undercut banks for trout to hide in. Fish will be planted by trucks and buckets, then to be harvested by overambitious anglers that always kill their catch. Life will come and go—in a season, in an instant.
I feel a change upon me, too. I don’t know what it is, but I feel the claw of current tearing at icy thoughts, feelings. My channel being cut. Dirt in my veins. I have found: why a Lost Creek? Definitions are lost, obscured in ice and mud and wandering streams and silted in history. This is liberation, even though there is still ice.

Thursday, January 27, 2011

Prompt Entry #2: My Riparian Home

The adopted son of a divorced couple, I always felt rootless. I’m not saying that I had a bad childhood by any means, or wanted to find my birth parents. I was well-loved, provided a nurturing environment, yet I never felt as if I settled into the earth like my mom, who lived only a mile from my grandparents, had. Maybe it was because I didn’t have a relationship with my dad, didn’t get to know his family (my family) who lived 3,000 miles away on the West Coast. Maybe it was because I lived more in books, not in Halifax, and I dreamed of places conjured out of words. Whatever the reason, I felt as if I were rootless: a seed  capable of roots, but one that has yet to find suitable soil.
My idealism and fantastic bent led me to believe that I was a dandelion seed or a fungi spore: light, easily caught by the wind to travel across vast landscapes before taking hold, colonizing new lands. I imagined that I would have been a Neolithic hunter, following the ice sheets across the northern Atlantic to America. Or one of Leif Erikson’s band, wintering on Newfoundland’s shores. Or a frontiersman, a hunter or trapper or subsistence farmer settling further West.
Little did I know that I was really only a maple seed, falling not far from my homeland, taking root in common soil. I have not lived anywhere other than central Pennsylvania; it’s pastoral rolling Appalachians proving too difficult for me to cross permanently, though I have wandered beyond. Yet, I have come to realize that, in a way, I am still nomad, Viking, and settler. All of these peoples lived on the borderlands of their existence. They edged upon the wild, yet clung to and fed off their connections to the small, fringe communities.
For me, each place that I have called home—Halifax, Lock Haven, McAlisterville—have been the fringe of my existence. There are no more true frontiers but a country life, past the frontiers of our suburban civilization. I live in a riparian zone, of sorts. Along the line between rural and wooded lands. A place where people still toil an existence out of the earth, where they find recreation under the shade of a hillside of trees. This has been the type of soil I have found best suited for me, though the particular place has changed.  It is this blurring of boundaries that has made me who I am.
Such land has circumscribed my life. My childhood home sat at the end of a line of ranchers and split-levels, the vestiges of small development boom in Halifax. Beyond our yard lay field after field, rotated yearly between corn and beans and hay, dissected by lines of feral trees and thickets. Beyond the fields: Peter’s Mountain, wooded and seemingly ancient and wild. When you crossed over it in the fall, you could see hints of an old stone retention wall that had once held up the dirt wagon road that lead to the city markets in Harrisburg.
But if you stayed within the valley—Powell’s Valley—you would travel along Peter’s Mountain in land much like that behind my house. Fields, hollows, a vein of trees crowded around the banks of Powell’s Creek. Slowly, almost imperceptibly, the valley narrowed—the fields hemmed into smaller plots, the farm houses becoming trailers, becoming hunting cabins—until you were entirely in the woods where the folds of two or three mountains knotted together.
Our land was a microcosm of the larger landscape. A triangular wedge of farmland abutted one of our property boundaries. White pines defined another, planted by my dad before the divorce as a wind and noise barrier. These two defining features intersected at the most distant corner of our two acres, where we dumped brush, dead leaves, and grass clippings. Right by this convergence, a path opened up in one of the field’s tree-lines, where the farmer moved his equipment from one crop to the next. It was a gate, an invitation, into the wildest place we knew.
My brother, Jared, and I learned to bike in the tractor ruts left behind in dried-up mud. We climbed those trees—sugar maples, chestnut oak, birch—swung from the vines that clung to them with the grasp of desperate beggars.  We monkey crawled under rusted barbed-wire fence. In the summer, we dared each other to eat the husks of cicada nymphs that hung to the bark; in winter, we tracked the prints of “wild game”: rabbits, grouse, the neighbors’ cats.
Once, when I was playing basketball up on our driveway court, Jared came running up to fetch me.
“Come on, I’ve got something to show you in the woods,” he said.
I ran to follow him, but his excitement drove him past the first tree-line behind our house, through the next field, and down into a smaller hollow of trees beyond where we only occasionally went to swing from vines. I saw him dive under a net of intertwining green briar. I followed, ripping my shorts on the needle sharp branches. In a small opening, my brother huddled over something with a stick in hand. When I finally crawled back to him, I could see it was a small animal trap, a perfect circle of teeth with a tongue-like trigger protruding from the center.
“Watch this.” His eyes gleamed, but his hand didn’t shake. He touched the tongue of the trap with the sick and it instantly snapped down, splintering the twig into a thousand pieces. As he tried to reset the trap, the spring jerked it loose from his grip, the teeth chattered shut.
I thought he had lost a finger, but he felt around, counting each knuckle and nail. No blood, he looked over his shoulder and just grinned at me: “What do you think we can catch?”
Looking back now, I realize that this borderland playground was like a basic training for us. Literally for Jared, who would eventually sign up with the Army to become a Ranger. But for me, it taught me that I had to dig my fingers into the dirt of life—to feel it, to smell and even taste it—in order to have an intimate knowledge of it.
The fields and woods were also a window into a world I couldn’t completely understand. I couldn’t understand the divorce; I was too young. I couldn’t put a name on the nausea I felt in my stomach when my dad came around. For my older, more conscious brother, I’m sure it was rage. But for me, it was a mixture of absence and longing. So when my brother and I were running mazes through the corn, I would veer off path, move to the edge of the field, when my dad came to visit our younger sister. I was angry, but it wasn’t until years later when I finally reconciled with my dad that I realized I was more angry at my sister (or more accurately at my sister’s innocence). I was angry that she didn’t remember the court rooms, the psychologists, the years of holidays where we tried to meet on middle grounds that eventually turned into battle grounds. Yet, I also peered out my window frame of corn stalks wishing that I could be back in the yard there with them, learning to ride my bike again, learning to throw a Frisbee again, learning to hit a baseball again, with the help of my dad.
This riparian zone of my life, though, was not just school yard and retreat, it ended up being salvation. Along another fringe—the hinterlands of industrialization of Lock Haven, which juxtaposed Sproul, Tiadaghton, and Tioga State Forests—I explored a deeper wood. I learned an ethic, the Bubba and Buddha of Leave No Trace. I learned that I could stay longer, carry my life with me into the woods. And that if I tread softly, earth could rebound gracefully, pardoning each step with time.  I studied ecosystems as a hobby, words as a profession. I became part of the pattern of insect, fish, and water, and found out that no matter how gorged a trout became on mayflies (or cicadas! which I never had the guts to eat myself), there were thousands more to produce thousands more. I found a wholeness and a forgiveness that I didn’t know before, which led me back to my dad.
We reconciled during a late winter hike down a switchback in the Pennsylvania Grand Canyon. And as a forester by profession, he took me deeper into the understanding of my world—on more hikes, kayak trips, or fishing excursions. Yet, our growing bond reminded me to always come back to the world of humanity, because while trees and fish were valuable to the world inherently, what value did they have to the spirit if you couldn’t weigh their lessons against the measure of human relationships.
I live in another borderland now. A field of beans in my backyard last summer. The view of a wooded ridge on all sides of the horizon. I hope that by landing here, taking root, my own seed—my two daughters—can find the beauty of both worlds. The world without and within; the wild and the cultivated. Much to the chagrin of my wife, I believe it’s taking hold in my oldest, now three. As she will slosh through a stream, or make mudpies with bare hands, or (as she did last night) flop into a fresh, slushy snow in just canvas shoes, leggings, and a winter coat that exposes her belly, just to make a snow angel.
While I haven’t fallen far from my parental limbs, I have found suitable ground to dig in my roots. I have found a home that was always there, and that I know is elsewhere, too, anywhere there are the edges of field and forest.

Tuesday, January 25, 2011

Place Post # 2: Why a Lost Creek?

When I first moved to Juniata County Pennsylvania, I was a little disheartened. While there was plenty of warm water fishing on the Juniata River ten minutes away, I had no quick access to a good trout stream.
My passion for the previous decade had been fly fishing. Each of the places I had lived in for those ten years were near good trout waters. I had lived in my hometown of Halifax for two years before this move, which was near an oasis in the midst of Harrisburg’s suburban sprawl: Clark’s Creek. Clark’s, in Dauphin, was a trout haven because of man’s encroachment; the small reservoir formed by Dehart Dam stayed chilled in its lower strata, and then the bottom-released effluent kept the creek a consistent 50-55 degrees for a couple of miles downstream, in the hottest summer months or the during the coldest winter freeze.
Before that, when I lived in Clinton County, I was 15 to 30 minutes away from the best limestone streams in the state. Fishing Creek and Spring Creek both bounded out of the ground from springs in the spongy limestone topography. Limestone was formed from the shells of ancient crustaceans that swam in the shallow sea that covered much of the eastern US before the Appalachians were formed from the slamming of our continent into Africa, Spain, and the British Isles. Ironically, this rock born from the sea is water solvent. So in a landscape of limestone, streams often disappear into sinkholes only to reappear out of springs or caves at full force. This water is also kept at a consistent 50-55 degrees because it is insulated by the earth, much like the artificial “spring” made by Dehart Dam and the insulation of the top strata of water.
So during my time in Lock Haven and Halifax, I learned that these cold water ecosystems are the best environment for trout, and consequently the best environment for fly fishing. The consistent temperatures that didn’t fluctuate allowed microscopic plants to thrive, which feeds the aquatic invertebrates like mayflies, stoneflies, and caddisflies, as well as small minnows and crayfish: i.e. trout food! Also, these types of environments seemed to be free of pollution because limestone often negates the effects of acidity and nutrient super-saturation (the worst pollutants of PA), or because we humans don’t want pollution in our drinking water supply. Truly, I was in trout heaven for the past ten years.
So when I moved to Juniata County, I repeat, I was disheartened. Again, there was bass fishing, and a number of stocked trout streams, but stocked streams are stocked for a reason: fish can’t survive in those streams year round. This is usually because of temperature flux, which means that there are fewer flies native to the streams, which means that even what trout fishing I could find would not be good fly fishing. But I held on to hope, which lay within a thin green line of a Class A Wild Trout Stream on the Fish and Boat online county map: Lost Creek.
As soon as I moved to McAlisterville, the town nearest Lost Creek, I became fascinated with the possibility of a “Lost Creek”. Why was it “lost”? I wondered. Could it be limestone? Did it duck into some sinkhole as it came out of the mountain, lost to the world until it popped up from some hidden spring? I studied maps, which supported my theory. The Fish and Boat Commission maps highlighted the creek with a broken line. It appeared to skip down off of the side of Shade Mountain, get “lost” around Rt. 235, but again reappear near Mountain Road. Also, a map from the PA Geological Survey showed that my valley was partially formed with limestone bedrock. Potential.
Yet, the few times that I could get out to fish it, Lost Creek lost my interests. I only caught a few small (4 inches or less) wild brown trout and one larger stocked brownie. Other than that it was chub water, and I made a killing on chubs. (For those of you who know nothing about fishing, chubs are a creek minnow of little game value, even for the catch and release fisherman like myself.) Plus, one temperature reading I took in the meadow I fished read near 80 degrees in midsummer. Not really hospitable for trout.
Yet, I still had hope. With the recent cold snap in the northeast, most of our waterways have seized up with ice. Even the mighty Susquehanna had parts frozen from bank to bank. But the fact that I saw moving water in last week’s excursion so far downstream led me to believe that there was some spring influence. All I had to do was follow the length of the creek and find a place where the it flowed free of ice, most likely a deep hole, still and wide, where springs could seep up into the main steam.
So, in my Jeep, I headed out along Mountain Road, along that gap in the map. It was 17 degrees, snow and ice clung to everything. A crust had coagulated on the still fields of white. Here, I don’t even find tracks of animals; every living thing seems to have retired to winter dens. The road doesn’t follow right along the creek, so I have to zig-zag on a couple of side roads to cross over bridges. Unfortunately, what I do find is ice covered currents, even thicker that I saw last week. If there was spring influence, it was below the four mile stretch of creek I pseudo-explored this week by car.
So, I am lost. Still unsure about this creek, my home—wondering where I’ll find a refuge from the stresses of my life. I do have hope, but lies in a stocking truck and the stubby-finned raceway trout. Unless, that is, I find something between Mountain and Ridge Roads that is miraculous.

Tuesday, January 18, 2011

Prompt Entry #1: Borders

Prompt #1:
The landscape that birthed me, nurtured me: a borderland. Halifax. We were at the upper limits of drivable distance to Harrisburg, the State Capital, so we were a commuter town. Yet, we were not suburbs. My own home also sat along the edge of a border: we were the last house in a chain of houses built between the 60’s and the 80’s. The unfinished development hooked in an “L” shape around the front edge of a farm. It was in these fields that I grew up. Following my brother into the fields and the trees and gullies that formed barriers between corn and beans and wheat, we played war, swung from vines, picked wild black cherries that were more of a novelty than a treat due to their sourness.
As we got older, though, our landscape became the macadam. Living in a rural area, we had to drive to see friends or go to practices or to just get out of the house—the yard and the fields were no longer big enough for us. We drove out to the Ponds: either the Wertz’s pond where we played euchre until early morning or the Laudenslager’s, a farm drainage pond dyed aqua-marine by chemicals to kill the bacteria washing in from the fields, where we’d jump off of their 20 ft.-high platform.
My neighbors, and everyone in the valley was a neighbor, were pleasant people. They knew your name, your parents’ names, grandparents, uncles, aunts, and distant relatives that were married to their brother’s cousin’s uncle. “Oh yeah,” they’d say, “she was a Fetterhof before she married your great-uncle Harry.” I, a prodigal son from birth, was horrible at names and forgot most of what was said to me, and often even the person’s name with whom I was speaking. They were walled within the valley, knew everything about their home. I wanted to push beyond those borders.
Eventually, the valleys and those people were not enough for us (and us was no longer just big brother and me, but a tight-knit group of friends that I still keep in contact with today). We left the valleys and headed up into the mountains. It wasn’t much of a wilderness, but it was a world away for us. Mostly driving, we pushed our borders further, higher into the mountains, as high as the dwarfed Pennsylvanian Appalachians can go. We blurred the lines of intellect and experience, mostly with beer, but also with conversation and exploration into the “backcountry” if you could call it that. We found dirt roads that we imagined were blazed by frontiersmen or natives. We waded through springs to find lost keys, not realizing that we were being baptized in the name of the land.
We had to drift apart, however, which, finally breaking my dependency on friends for experience, is when I really began to have “a genuine experience” with nature. At Lock Haven, I mountain biked throughout Bald Eagle and Sproul State Forests, I canoed and kayaked down through Pine Creek (the PA Grand Canyon), I learned to fly fish and plucked planks of trout from beneath Hemlock in limestone valleys or in the hollows of tiny mountain streams. It was alone, in the woods or stream, where I formed new bonds—with myself—grew confident in my own voice, and spoke (for the first time) not just to prove that I had something worthy of attention. I circumscribed my own boundaries. I let my silent words echo in my skull as I waded upstream or hiked the next ridge, sometimes releasing them into the wind or water.
*             *             *
Once, I fished on Slate Run with my father (which is like being alone because he, as one who spent his life in the woods as a forester, is a quiet and solitary man when among trees). This is a fairly wild area, and a doe stumbled straight down stream toward us. She lost her footing in the hole that we were fishing, and swam directly toward me. I sat quietly on a log on the north bank, and the deer swam within two feet of my dangling boots before looking me squarely in the eyes. She then turned around and swam toward my dad, who was sitting on the hill opposite the creek from me, trying on a fly. The doe must not have seen him because she ran within inches of his legs before tearing off, 45 degrees to his left, up the hill.
We never really talk about that moment, and what it meant to us, though I know it meant as much to him as it does to me. It’s not really one of those experiences I talk about when describing my adventures in the wild either because everything else seems less weighty to me. It's a border I've crossed, into a spiritual territory I don't completely understand.
Every now and then, though, I will say to my dad, “Remember that deer on Slate Run…”
He just replies, “Never in all my years…”

Place Entry #1: Finding Lost Creek

I turn off Jericho Road onto Ridge Road in Fermanagh Township, Juniata County. The road—mud and rock, pockmarked and rutted out by truck tires—winds along the edge of a field on my right, which is clipped short like the spikey hair of a Caucasian flattop. On my left, a hedgerow. Barbed-wire weaves through the vegetation, is tied to posts camouflaged by the brush.  Trees, once saplings scraping the edge of the fence’s claw, have now completely swallowed steel. More threatening than man’s barbs, thickets of green briar, now burgundy with loss of chlorophyll, seems to add highlights of blood to the landscape. Between the hedgerow and a gently arching hill, a small tributary creek meanders through sporadic cattail reeds and deciduous trees that I can’t identify when leafless. The trib, as I am, works its way down to Lost Creek.
Ice clings to the banks of the creek proper, and at some of the slowest pools, it seizes the entire flow. Yet, the current runs freely through the riffles and, at times, down the middle of the creek. The water is clear enough to see down to the cobbled bottom; nothing moves. Anchor ice is forming on the rocks beneath, choking the creek from top and bottom.
This is what I came here expecting to find. I came looking for death. Trying to force its presence out of nature’s metaphor like so many people before me, trying to fashion my own mythology: the barren tree, frozen water. I hoped to trace the cycle of life of this creek in the year to come, explore the symbolism of its name, as I walk its banks throughout the seasons. But it isn’t that clear cut.
Throughout the field, down to the creek and across the ice: tracks. Deer, rabbit, a myriad of birds, raccoons (maybe), and the possibility of tracks I can’t identify like coyote and bobcat. Here or there, the snow is dug up, a snout having rooted for seeds or grubs. Beyond the creek, I see rabbit tracks zig-zagging in what must have been evasive maneuvers, but I can’t distinguish any tracks that would have chased it. And then I can’t deny the signs of human life: a road is plowed and treaded by tires, an SUV is parked at a cabin that overlooks the creek.
I park at a pull around and get out to walk along the edge of the ice. I follow some tracks until they run out of land and across ice of the creek (or turn around, lost in the collage of other tracks). Here the creek bends easterly, running into a mass of land that is not quite cliff yet steeper than bank. The cabin’s deck reaches out to the edge of land overhead. Hemlocks sharply contrast the other leafless trees with its bluish-green winter foliage. This grove shades the creek, which, here, is fully iced. I place a foot on the ice, and it creaks under my weight. I don’t go further and draw back, knowing that another step could be disastrous.
As I retreat back to my car, I realize that’s what I’ve found on Lost Creek today. This landscape, this season, is not death, but life in retreat, a response of life to potential death. Everything—the trees, the wildlife—the creek pulls back, holds its breath, in one communal sucking in of life.
I too pull back: back to my car, my house, my life. Right now, I have to retreat within to survive the wintry responsibilities of work and school. I can’t stay out now, but can’t wait to return.